It is the biggest and most developed bouldering area in the world.
A climbing route threads its way from boulder to boulder. The boulders in Fontainebleau are erosive remnants from the Oligocene age, relatively young in geological terms. from his initials). The typical Bleau landscape is a "chaos" of rocks (no more than a few meters high) spread over a sandy plain. Every serious boulderer should visit Fontainebleau at least once in their life.
However, the Bleau grades are generally more severe; thus an 8A route outside of Bleau is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem in Bleau.
A lone dot indicates a suggested foothold. The Fontainebleau bouldering suits all … The sandstone is fragile. Thus, the 1936 French expedition to the Karakoram included several Bleausards (Bleau climbers). It remains today a prime climbing location.
Coordinates: 48°25′N 2°37′E / 48.41°N 2.62°E / 48.41; 2.62, Escalade à Bleau, Tome 1: Les Trois Pignons, COSIROC, Escalade à Bleau, Tome 2: Forêt domaniale de Fontainebleau, COSIROC, "Site d'escalade Fontainebleau - Les Trois Pignons (La Canche aux Merciers) - info, topo, localisation...", Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada, Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade, International Federation of Sport Climbing, International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation, South African National Climbing Federation, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Fontainebleau_rock_climbing&oldid=968624188, Articles with unsourced statements from March 2013, Articles with unsourced statements from April 2016, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 20 July 2020, at 14:27.
Before you go: Planning your bouldering trip Check out what is happening in Fontainebleau. Thanks. Dont use the base of the routes as your toilet. Initially, there were no formalised routes; climbers would choose the most remarkable boulders, aiming for the highest and most committing ones, as a preparation for the mountains. To preserve the area (and the climbs) please adhere to the following rules: Use chalk with caution and brush it off afterwards (including huge tick marks). Since then, Fontainebleau has always been on the forefront of the development of bouldering. Clean the bottom of your climbing shoes removing all sand and dirt before any climb.
The holy grail of bouldering. The Bouldering Called “Font” by foreigners, but “Bleau” by locals (pronounce "bloh"), bouldering started here as a training ground for Alpine climbers at the end of the 19th century. Problem boulders are numbered in sequence (number 1 is typically the boulder after the départ); easier, transition boulders are marked with an unnumbered arrow. The first painted route was created in 1947 by Fred Bernick in the Cuvier Rempart area, followed by routes at Les Gorges d'Apremont painted by Pierre Mercier in 1952. The region around Fontainebleau in France is particularly famous for its concentrated bouldering areas. In the last few decades, Font has become one of, if not the, world's most popular bouldering destinations.
It is the biggest and most developed bouldering area in the world. All the boulders used along a given route are marked the same colour.
From them, several sectors can be reached by a short hike of about 30min. The first guidebook appeared in 1945, written by Maurice Martin, providing a map of blocks and routes with their names and ratings. Go into the forest a little further off the track or out of the area for a 1 and dig a hole for a 2. Several other campsites are around, but they require a car to reach the sectors. On each individual boulder, an arrow indicates the general direction of climb. There are too many routes to create a PDF at this node. They are colloquially known as "Font" to English speakers, and as Bleau in France. Please note that we use cookies to improve the use of this website. Although at a farther distance, the climbing areas of Beauvais (Nainville-les-Roches, north of Milly), Nemours, Buthiers-Malesherbes (west of Larchant) and Chamarande are similar and are considered part of Bleau. This website hopes to pull together all the key information together for you to plan and enjoy your next trip to the forest whilst helping preserve this incredible area for future generations and respecting and growing relationships with the local climbing community.
The body is positioned such that the arrow is at navel level. The final boulder is marked with a circled A (arrivée). You'll find a beautiful landscape, perfect rock and the need for a wide variety of climbing skills! With an almost endless number of problems at all grades, it attracts climber of all skills, ages and nationalities from across the globe to test their abilities on its world famous sandstone. [1] In 1900, the Club Alpin Français organised a meet to ascend "the Gorges d'Apremont range" and then go to Larchant, whose huge rocks constitute the "usual practicing area of the Paris Section of CAF.". The first rock of the route (le départ) carries a white painted rectangle inscribed with the route number and its grading (e.g. If you have any changes or additions that you think would be good to include, just let me know.
Every serious boulderer should visit Fontainebleau at least once in their life. Night climbing is prohibited to reduce the impact on the animal habitat. At the time, people would climb in Fontainebleau primarily to train for mountain climbing.
Generally, all holds within reasonable reach are allowed; occasionally, a forbidden hold may be indicated by a dashed line. 1908 the Paris Alpine club marked the first parcours to practice techniques for the higher montains. Some routes, called parcours montagne, intended to emulate a mountain route, are bi-directional and are indicated by a line rather than an arrow. Today, the high-quality stone and wide-range of problems and circuits attracts people from all over the globe. Before World War II, most of the areas that are popular today were already well known to Parisian climbers, except for Les Trois Pignons, which was not easily accessible by public transport. Bleausards Robert Paragot, Lucien Bérardini and René Ferlet made the first ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua in 1954. The Fontainebleau grading system originated here.
Several Bleau boulders or routes are named after famous climbers of the beginning of the 20th century: Prestat, Wehrlin, Maunoury, Gaché, Labour, Paillon, Souverain, and the famous Pierre Allain, the inventor of the smooth-sole climbing shoe (named P.A. roo on ★★★ Chasseur de Prises 7A - chasseur de prises2.jpg, nick constantine,le chien on ★★★ Holey Moley 7A - holey moley.jpg, roo on La Dalle Ultra 6C - dalle ultra2.jpg. Try a level down. French alpine climbers practiced bouldering there since the 19th century. AD+) in the appropriate colour (orange in this example).
Generally, a car is recommended to reach most of the sectors. The region around Fontainebleau in France is particularly famous for its concentrated bouldering areas. Examples are 'L'Angle Allain' 5+ (1935, Pierre Allain), "La Marie Rose" 6A (1946, René Ferlet), 'La Joker' originally 6C, nowadays a hard 7A (1952, Robert Paragot), 'L‘Abbatoir' 7A (1960, Michel Libert), 'Le Carnage' 7B (1983, Jérôme Jean-Charles, 1983), 'La Bérézina' 7C (1977, Pierre Richard), 'C‘était demain' 8A (1984, Jacky Godoffe), 'Fat Man' 8B (1984, Jacky Godoffe). [citation needed]. French alpine climbers practiced bouldering there since the 19th century. Once a practice ground for 19th century French alpinists, the seemingly never-ending sandstone rocks of Fontainebleau are popular with experienced and beginner climbers alike. In the last few decades, Font has become one of, if not the, world's most popular bouldering destinations. Only 90km south of Paris, this well known bouldering area impresses everyone with its beauty, charm and variety of boulders. The difficulty of each individual move can be found in guidebooks.[1]. Routes are colour-coded according to their adjectival grade: (The Translation column is a literal translation of the French adjective; do not assume any relation to any other grading system.
The area is mainly taken care of by CoSiRoc (https://cosiroc.fr/) where you can find most of the topos.
Very few of these remain; there is one, for instance, at Franchard-Cuisinière. Thousands of climbers are already doing this. The Forest of Fontainebleau is a mecca for boulderers from all over the world. Where the same route crosses a boulder twice, the first arrow is marked A (aller) and the second R (retour). The majority of the bouldering is to found in the forests that surround Fontainebleau, which makes for a magical and unique setting.
The bouldering quality is world class. The Fontainebleau climbing areas are located in a forested area south of Paris. A dot with a triangle indicates the general direction of the next boulder. Climbing Contests & Competitions on theCrag, theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User Content. They are located mostly within the Forêt Domaniale (National Forest) de Fontainebleau, near the town of Fontainebleau, des Trois Pignons (near Milly-la-Forêt) and de la Commanderie (near Larchant). Whether you're into hiking, running, mountain biking, rock climbing or simply looking to chil out with the family and kids and have a picnic in a stunning environment, the forest of Fontainebleau is certain to suit your needs. Campsite La Musardière for direct access to the Trois Pignons area. Two complementary grading systems are in use.
A dot within a broken circle indicates a jump. Chalk should only be used on hands, never directly on the rock! Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. The area is mainly taken care of by CoSiRoc (https://cosiroc.fr/) where you can find most of the topos. It remains today a prime climbing location. Called “Font” by foreigners, but “Bleau” by locals (pronounce "bloh"), bouldering started here as a training ground for Alpine climbers at the end of the 19th century.
Alternative problems are marked with an arrow and a b (bis) or a t (ter), or with a small triangle (variante). This is now widely used also in other bouldering areas around the world. From the La Musardière campsite, the Trois Pignons sectors can be easily reached by bike (or even by foot).
At the end of the 1800s, Aldolphe Joanne, the president of the Club Alpin Français, invited foreign visitors to visit the sites of Franchard and Apremont. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/, Located close to Paris, so there are many options to get there. Their appearance may have been accentuated by localised mineralisation (silicification) of the sandstone rock, forming large nodules that are resistant to erosion. The holy grail of bouldering. Fontainebleau, often called Font by English speakers or Bleau (pronounced blow) by French speakers has been the centre of bouldering since the 1800s. The standardisation of route colour by difficulty (Yellow = PD, Orange = AD, Blue = D, Red = TD, Black = ED, White = ED+) dates back to the 1980s.
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